Sew-cation Makes 2&3 – A Tale of Two Penny’s

As part of my sew-cation, I was dying to make the Sew Over It Penny Dress. I love a shirt dress – it has a bit of a vintage feel – and have made a couple in the past using McCall’s M6696.

Although it makes a lovely dress, it isn’t half fiddly – fitted bodice, sleeves, complicated collar, pleats, pockets and a LOAD of buttons. What I really wanted was a shirt dress a lot fussy to sew, that I could run a million up of if the mood took me. And I’ve found that in Penny. So far I’ve made two versions – a wearable toile out a bargain duvet from Argos, and the Real Deal out of a beautiful Cotton Lawn from Exeter Fabric Centre.

Photography by GCP Photography

Photograph by GCP Photography

What I really love about the Penny dress is that it has the features of any other skirt dress – cute capped sleeves, collar, fitted waist – but the method makes these things really straight forward to sew. The capped sleeves are part of the bodice pattern pieces which means no fiddly setting in to do (tip: I sewed across the bottom of the sleeves to reinforce the seams*). The button packet is created out of the facing, which also makes it more straightforward in the long run. I’m super proud of the neatness of my topstitching and the point on the button packet.

And the skirt is immense. After this and my Catarina dress, I’m totally convinced the midi length is the way forward. It feels so elegant.

Photography by GCP Photography

The is the first Sew Over It pattern I’ve made up (although I’ve bought loads), and I really liked it. Like most people I find the photo instructions just made the pattern a breeze to follow. Again, like a lot of people I found the pattern to have too much ease. I made up a toile in a 10, based on my measurements, but it was a bit too baggy in the bodice. Nothing major, just more ease than I would like. When I made the Real Deal, I made up an 8 and it fits like a dream.

The only issues I had were due to the fact that I downloaded the original PDF pattern, which had several notches missing (on the front facing and skirt pieces). It’s since been reissued, but I only found this out after I posted a confused plea of Facebook which is annoying. And there’s still a notch you’re supposed to use to line up the collar that I can’t find on the original or reissued pattern.

One big thing to point out – I bought 3.5 metres of 140cm wide fabric as stated on the pattern, but I managed to get the pieces out of less than 2.5 metres. Slightly frustrating, But it makes it a cheaper sew in the long run, and I’m planning to make Simplicity 1590 out of what’s left.

Apart from my few niggles, I’m really happy with how my Penny’s tuned out. I hadn’t intended to wear my tile, but as I was sewing the toile I fell more and more in love with the pattern and the fabric. Deciding to wear and keep the toile did, however, mean unpicking the skirt to line the triangles up down the centre front. If I hadn’t, I’m convinced it would have eventually driven me insane.

Photography by GCP Photography

My verdict? Penny is a straightforward sew, and makes up in to a really elegant day dress. It only took me about 4-5 hours to sew, so it’s definitely one you can do in a day. And I think it’s one I think I will make again and again.
*Reinforcing the underarm sleeve seams is definitely needed, the first time I wore my Penny to work I twisted the wrong way and toe the fabric a little! It’s fixable, but I’ll definitely interfacing and stitch over the seam a couple of times in future.